How to identify the quality of the men's watch movement?
Apr 24,2023
The movement is the core of the watch, but it is still relatively unknown to ordinary people. Because most people only care about the appearance of the watch, only real watch lovers know the working principle and advantages and disadvantages of the movement. How to identify the quality of men's watch movement when customizing men's watches?
First, look at the front and back of a men's watch to see what it looks like. Then, carefully observe whether the processing level of each splint and every transmission part that it can see is delicate and whether the decorative lines are well-proportioned. That way, you can tell if the machine is a product of the highest quality in appearance. And thus we can judge the concept of its design and the high efficiency of processing and manufacturing. On the contrary, the processing of mechanical parts is not smooth, even distorted and deformed, and the performance of men's watch movements with poor appearance and the ugly color is not much better.
If the men's watch movement is in the stopwatch state, you can first rotate the stem to wind the watch movement, and at the same time observe the balance spring system and the escapement mechanism. The balance wheel hairspring system and the escapement mechanism start to run and run. That step is to test the performance of the main transmission system of the watch movement. If it cannot operate normally, the main reason means that the main transmission system of the watch movement has Problems with the polarization of the balance spring system in the drive train section.
If the balance spring system and the escapement are running in time and running normally, you can continue to rotate the stem to wind the watch movement, and there are a few points to pay attention to. The first is that your winding should be comfortable and not laborious. The feeling of unevenness, second is to pay attention to the sound of winding, and it should be even without the sound of teeth gnawing. The last thing to pay attention to is that the number of winding turns should not be too many, generally around 25 turns. That step is for It is used to test the performance of the winding gear train of this watch movement.
Pull out the handle shaft to the second gear, which is the calendar quick dial gear of this movement. When the handle shaft is pulled out to the second gear, you should clearly feel that the gear is in place, and then turn the handle shaft to quickly dial the calendar ring. At this time, the key point to study is that when the dating ring is driven by the quick-set gear teeth, each tooth should beat very rhythmically. If the rhythm is not smooth, it indicates a problem with the calendar part.
Continue to turn the arbor to the third gear, which is the needle stopper of this movement, and turn the arbor to move the hour and minute hands. At this time, what needs to be paid attention to is similar to that when winding. The observation is whether there is any deviation when the two hands repeat to the 12 o'clock point. In addition, if you are interested, you can continue to rotate the stem to let the hour hand rotate until 24 hours. Note that the calendar ring will vibrate once, which is for investigation The actual operation of the calendar mechanism is not the performance state under the premise of rapid rotation.
To customize men's watches, not only the movement but also other accessories need to be paid attention to. We will share the selection methods for other accessories later.